Cycling west along the Riviera
This morning started with a bit of drama. Helge had to head home, and what should have been a straightforward airport run turned into a stressful affair. There was an accident on the motorway, traffic barely moved, and by the time he reached the airport there was hardly any time left. He missed the baggage check-in and had to leave his suitcase behind. Luckily, Ali – our trusted driver down here – stepped in and will bring the bag back tomorrow.
With Helge on his way, it was just Jon Vidar, Kim, and me left. We decided to take the bikes and head west along the coast. No climbing, no serious hills – just an easy ride. The weather was perfect, and the whole trip had a very relaxed feel to it.
Once you’re back on the bike, the whole feeling of the Riviera shifts. The still, heavy air disappears the moment you start pedaling — replaced by a fresh breeze and that sense of freedom you only get at 20–30 km/h. The azure sea stretches endlessly on your left, while sculpted cliffs and luxurious villas line the road on your right.
Along the way, we passed the famous Bubble House, or Palais Bulles, perched dramatically above the sea near Théoule-sur-Mer. Designed in the 1980s by Hungarian architect Antti Lovag and later owned by fashion designer Pierre Cardin, it looks more like a movie set than a home. With its round, organic forms, it’s been used for film shoots and fashion shows, but has mostly stood empty. At one point it was even on the market for hundreds of millions of euros — a surreal price tag for an equally surreal house.
We eventually rolled into a tiny beachside spot, completely unmarked, no sign outside. A true hidden gem. Only after checking the map did we learn the name: La Crique. It sits within the commune of Théoule-sur-Mer, in Port de la Figueirette.
The beach itself is stunning. Bright white sand, red cliffs tumbling into the water, and calm little coves where you can slip into the sea. No swimmers yet, but the water is warm, and the air even warmer. Under the white parasols of the beach restaurant, people were sipping wine, clinking glasses, and breaking into song – a lively group of tourists clearly enjoying themselves.
We weren’t all that hungry, so we didn’t order food – just cold beers. The menu is small and simple, with pizzas, sandwiches, burrata salads, grilled sardines, and of course the ever-present café gourmand. A few desserts too – panna cotta and a surprisingly elegant carpaccio de ananas. Nothing fancy, but the kind of food that matches the setting.
As if the place wasn’t charming enough, the restaurant also had its own four-legged host – a calm and dignified German Shepherd who had clearly made the sandy floor his throne. He lay there watching over the guests, adding a touch of Riviera soul to the whole experience.
At the next table, a woman caught our eye – not because she was smoking (though she was, elegantly, with her own pocket ashtray), but because she somehow turned the whole thing into a performance. You can’t help but notice these little details here on the Riviera.
We took some great photos of Jon Vidar, who, as always, managed to look effortlessly charming. He’s fast becoming our unofficial poster boy of the trip.
All in all, La Crique turned out to be exactly what we needed: a hidden little corner of the coast, quiet yet full of atmosphere. A beer stop on a bike ride that became one of those small Riviera moments you never plan for – but end up remembering.
